Sirene: Behind the scenes

Pictures are from Didi Ignatova.

Bulgarian Cuisine

Great information, reflections, and experiences related to Bulgarian food. Hoppin John's Blog 

Stamboliski Dam Camp

I travelled this past week to Stamboliski Reservoir for a summer camp organized by two PCVs from towns along the Danube. The 20 or so kids that participated camp were older (middle-high school aged), and had lots of responsibilities. I was so impressed: they cooked, cleaned, and cut firewood. 

The location was perfect. Our tents were set up right by the reservoir and I was got to go swimming for the first time in over a year! It felt amazing to be in the water. The kids also boated and fished. One day we hiked to the top of the cliffs overlooking the reservoir. The views were spectacular.

It was a longer camp and there were quite a few learning sessions for participants including ones on compasses and orienteering, knot-tying, starting fires and safety, and peer pressure. It was great to see how some of the topics were taught so I can share them with the kids in Chiprovtsi. I also learned to juggle. Seriously. With three tennis balls in the air at the same time. I’m up to 6 throws without dropping. So, if the whole law/grad school plan doesn’t work out… 

Holiday of the Balkan Mountains

The celebrations began on September 1st with the opening of an exhibition for local artisans. Wood carvings, books, metalwork, and woven tapestries and carpets were displayed in the exhibit hall of the municipality.

September 4th was the “Three Chuki” bike race, organized by Adventura Ltd. and the municipality.  The race is an annual event, with elite and children's categories. More information on the course and how to participate next year can be found here: Bike Race

 For me, the real celebrations began on Monday, September 5th, with the Banitsa Festival held in the town center. Despite super hot weather, tons of people showed up to try traditional foods from Chiprovtsi, surrounding villages, and Acenovo. The center was so full of people!

In addition to the various local cuisines, there was a table dedicated to Chiprovtsi-style banitsa, homemade jams, yogurt, and cheeses for sale, and an area for kids to learn about birds and make their own toy from Bulgarian Society for the Protection of Birds (BSPB).

The Banitsa and food was followed by a children’s presentation and folk festival in the center. Visiting dancers and singers, decendants of Chiprovtsi’s pre-1688 uprising, performed to traditional Banat-Bulgarian, and Romanian songs. This was followed by a commemoration of the 410 anniversary of Peter Bogdan. Bogdan, a Catholic Bishop and important National Revival figure, is one of Chiprovtsi’s major historical heroes. In the evening, a concert by the “Bulgare” was held in the Cultural Center.

On Tuesday, I went with Jordanka and her family to celebrate the Festival of the Gushovski Monastery on the mountains. The carpets were displayed on top of the mountain like last year and the weather was gorgeous. 

First we lit candles at the stone crosses at the foot and top of the monastery hill. Then the Bishop from Vidin gave his blessings. 

 Next came the shkembe chorba, or tripe soup. We picniked at Jordanka's family's hizha nearby. 

After xoro dancing, we hiked back to town. 

September 6th is celebrated nationwide in Bulgaria as Unification Day. This article gives a good explanation of the holiday. http://www.novinite.com/view_news.php?id=131825

Dragodonovo Birthday and Gurkovo Donkeys

Getting ready for the donkey races in Gurkovo

I travelled to Dragodonovo on Friday to celebrate Neysa’s birthday with her village.  We chatted with friends in the village center and she cherpi-ed drinks and snacks for everyone. She showed me the building where she and colleagues are working on a PCPP project to create a rec/fitness center for the community. It looks fantastic. Later in the evening we went na gosti with friends for her birthday dinner, practicing our xoro dancing skills in the garden until late.

Gurkovo Biorali

The next day, we departed for the Gurkovo Donkey Races. Way more than just donkey races, the annual Biorali included donkey soccer, donkey tug of war, and theme decorated donkey carts. The Peace Corps volunteer in Gurkovo arranged volunteer accommodations and decorated a Peace Corps donkey cart. The Peace Corps donkey, Pencho, didn’t participate in most of the events (he’s 18 years old-a very old donkey). He did, however, receive lots of cheers during his introduction and loop around the racetrack.

Donkey Tug-of-War

Twenty-four donkeys participated in the events. Awards were given for best decoration, rapid harness/un-harness, cart race, strength (tug-of-war), and naked riding (without a harness). The winner, champion of the biorali for the 6th time, took home 500 BGN cash, a baby cow, bio-fuel (alfalfa, hay, etc.), and wooden boards. Several thousand spectators attended and there was a large vendor area with cotton candy, BBQ, and other bazaar-type items. Gurkovo began the Biorali in 1971 and is also home to a donkey museum.

 

Donkey Futbol

Celebrations Begin: 25th Birthday

Celebrating my 25^th birthday in Bulgaria was fantastic.

I was super excited about the cake that Palma and Vladi made. It was awesome. The candles read "2-5"     

The day before, I prepped two family size pans of brownies for cherpi-ing* at work and made banitsa and tarator for my cousin’s arrival. My cousin, Brett, was in town for a few days during his epic trip around the world. Unfortunately for him, all my cooking skills were used on adding oil and eggs to the brownie mixes--the brownies were excellent. The banitsa (way too salty) and tarator (way too much garlic and dill) were awful. I also prepared bags of drinks, snacks, and more brownies to bring for my birthday party in the neighboring village. 

*Cherpi-ing basically means ‘treating.’ As in, it’s my birthday, so I’m treating my friends and colleagues to chocolate, cola, chips, or whatever you choose (chocolate is more or less mandatory though). In return, they shake your hand and wish you a happy birthday, with health, happiness, good luck, love, lots of babies, etc. It’s tradition to ‘cherpi’ not only on your birthday, but also your nameday, or whenever something wonderful happens to you (new grandchild or winning the lottery). 

My dear friend, Didi, wove this bag to give to me for my birthday. It's too beautiful to use. I'll keep it forever to remember friends from my time here. 

My brownies were a hit at work and I spent some time googling and translating recipes for colleagues. Between handshakes and cherp-ing, preparations for the celebrations on the 5th and 6th of September kept me super busy. I was able to get away for lunch with Brett at Torlacite (not wanting to attempt cooking again) and to take him to the Historical Musuem. After I finished work, we hiked to Velin Del, a mountaintop overlooking the border peaks with Serbia, then carried supplies to the neighboring village for the birthday party one of my friends organized.

Brett and I eating with friends before the party. 

It meant a lot to me how many people remembered that it was my birthday (even if Facebook is to thank). The birthday flowers, presents, and wishes from my friends in Chiprovtsi were very special. And I’d never imagined someone would throw me a party. It was a day when I truly felt that this is real life, my real friends, real experiences. A great birthday.