Blagoevgrad

I know it’s been a while since my last update. I’ve been crazy busy with Peace Corps admin, friends, and Bulgarian family. It’s wonderful, but also exhausting! Last week I was in Blagoevgrad for a Peace Corps training session on EU grants and teaching English. The topics were really interesting and it was fantastic to see all of my fellow trainees after our first month at site. Although some programs might be useful, the EU, with all its bureaucracy, committees, and oversight bodies seems a bit more like an employment agency than an effective experiment in supranational governance…

Blagoevgrad is in southwest Bulgaria, near Macedonia. It takes about 5 ½ hours, by bus for me to get there from Chiprovtsi…if everything is on schedule and I don’t have a layover in Sofia. Blagoevgrad has been inhabited since the Thracians settled there in 300BC. It is currently home to the American University and has lots of shopping, restaurants, AND a movie theater.

Center Square in Blagoevgrad

Although we hardly had any time to wander around, a herd of us did taxi to town for a movie one night. We saw Inception, which was good, but the experience itself was even better. I’ve been craving movie theater popcorn and a fountain soda for a while…they didn’t have fountain sodas, but they did have beer and fresh popcorn. I couldn’t have asked for more. Sitting in the dark theater surrounded by fellow volunteers, eating buttery popcorn, drinking coke light through a straw while pretending it was a fountain soda, and watching Leonardo DiCaprio on a giant screen made for a perfect evening.

One day, a few of us skipped lunch at the hotel where the conference was held (several kilometers away from town) to have dyuners at a Dyuner King near the city center. Dyuners are unlike anything else. They sort of begin as a gyro, with either chicken or lamb inside of a large pita-ish bread wrap, then I you choose salads to add, I like it with beans and cucumber salad. There are also cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, French fries, ketchup and maybe a few other sauces inside the bread. There’s a lot going on in a dyuner, but they are great and keep you full for a long time. The other volunteers seem to be dyuner experts, it was a new experience for me. They are common in the larger towns in Bulgaria, but never really appealed to me. This is a picture I found online. Mine was a lot fuller and messier looking, but it still conveys the dyuner concept.

Fudge & Баница

I've found relatively easy and cheap gift to bring when I go na gosti: fudge. I’m not much of a cook, and the first few times I tried making fudge it failed to become fudge. First attempt, it turned into a plastic-like rock; then, it never became solid. After trial and error and several bags of sugar, I figured it out and everyone loves it. There isn’t anything quite like fudge available here and since it lasts for a long time, I can bring it again and again without having to buy or make anything new. I’ve even taught fudge making to some Chiprovtsi colleagues…Not an easy task without a dictionary, conversions from cups to metric, or any way of conveying certain parts of the process. For example: I know that when the boiling mixture turns into a slightly malleable ball if dripped in cold water, it must be removed from heat. This is a difficult thing to explain.

A lot of fudge...there are 6 cups of sugar in there

In return for the fudge lessons and the promise to demonstrate making apple pie, I also have been given more canned fruit, vegetables, and random foods than I’ll ever be abe to eat alone. People must think I’m starving (I’m definitely not), because they bring me food all the time. I’ll be jogging at 6 am and will here a voice calling ‘girl, girl’ followed by a baba carrying a bag of raspberries and a bunch of grapes. It’s very difficult to run while carrying grapes.

My fruit compote and pepper cupboard. The rest of my fresh fruits, jams, and veggies are elsewhere. I'm pretty sure I'll never go hungry in Bulgaria.

I’ve also been taught to prepare a few new Bulgarian dishes: Chiprovtsi banitsa and pumpkin banitsa. Below are the recipes for traditional banitsa and pumpkin banitsa. Both are awesome and are super fast and easy to make. The pumpkin one is like a pumpkin pie pastry and the cheese one is, well, like a sweet cheese pastry. I’ll restate this below, but I don’t have exact measurements, whenever I've been present, it has been prepared without measurements and to taste. The recipes are very flexible. I made up the measurements for you below as close as could guess.

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Rolled Traditional Banitsa...The top one was my first attempt, below is what it's supposed to look like.

Layered Traditional Banitsa

BANITSA RECIPE FROM KRAVODER

I’ve learned several different ways to make traditional banitsa, but this is by far, my favorite. I prefer it puffy, without much sugar, and with lots of eggs, cheese, and yogurt. You can completely leave out the yogurt and decrease the eggs if you want.

The banitsa in Chiprovtsi uses a dry type of phyllo (which is called suxi kori za banitsa, other phyllo is called kori za banitsa) that is wetted just prior to layering and uses 4 eggs, same amount of cheese, no yogurt, no baking soda, more oil, more sugar, and more orange soda on top. It is also sliced in the middle before pouring on the orange soda. Most banitsas don’t use yogurt in the recipe, but I think its better with yogurt. I’ve also had slight variations of all ingredients below since they use whatever they have at the time.

Use either store bought phyllo or the recipe for homemade phyllo below. I’d recommend the store bought. I’ve only had homemade once and it turned out a bit tough. I’ve had it made with thick phyllo rolled in a circular pattern and many layers of thin phyllo. Both are can be incredible. So, if the store has the slightly thicker phyllo, use it to roll burrito style then wrap in a growing circle starting from the middle of a large circular pan; if they have the thin stuff, layer it. You might need two packs of store bought. Follow cooking directions for the phyllo on package, or try 400*F and adjust to what works best.

Filling:

- 5 eggs

- 1 ½ cups plain yogurt

- 2 ½ cups crumbled of Bulgarian sirene (any white brine cheese or feta can be substituted)

- 1 Tablespoon baking soda.

- Sugar to taste, start with maybe 2 tablespoons or so

- 2 Tablespoons oil (sunflower is what is most prevalent and commonly used here, I don’t think I’ve had it made with any other type)

- Pinch of salt

Mix 5 eggs, yogurt, cheese, baking soda, sugar, and oil together. Add the cheese last, it shouldn’t be smooth, the cheese can either be crumbled or grated large, but shouldn’t be beat in with the eggs and yogurt, just stirred around a bit. Leave oil and sugar out, you’ll need a bit more for the top. In oiled pan, place first layer of dough, spread a few spoonfuls of filling evenly, add next layer, and continue until last layer of dough is on top.

On top: (if you have extra filling, you can that instead, but add a bit more baking soda or soda water)

- ¼ cup soda water or orange soda if you like it sweeter

- 1 egg, beaten

- ½ Tablespoon oil

- Sugar to taste

Beat 1 egg; mix with soda water and ½ tablespoon oil; pour over top layer. Sprinkle with sugar to taste. Cook. Banitsa should puff up and turn light brown. Remember, if you use the homemade dough above, you won’t be layering, but spreading a thicker layer on the dough and rolling it up like a burrito. You’ll need more working space to spread mixture on dough and transfer to pan. Still prepare the extra egg/soda water mix for on top. All of the measurements are guesses, I’ve been shown many times how to make banitsa and each time is a bit different and never have measuring utensils been used. Adjust to preferences and let me know if you like it!

Layered Traditional Banitsa, sliced to serve

PUMPKIN BANITSA

Kori/Phyllo Dough:

(It might be easiest to use store bought phyllo dough, but you should look for the thickest available if you want to make it in rolls. If you have to use the thinner stuff, you’ll make it with lots of layers. Process explained below).

Mix all ingredients together and knead the dough on floured surface for 5-7 minutes. Set aside under newspaper or towel. Do this before grating the pumpkin. That will take a while and give the dough a chance to set.

- Flour, a lot, maybe 4 -5 cups. You’ll need to end up with three balls between softball and baseball size of dough. There will be a bit left over.

- 1 teaspoon salt

- water, until good consistency. More flour if sticky, more water if dry

- ¼ cup oil

- 2 Tablespoon apple or white vinegar

Prepare the pan by coating the bottom with oil. Heat oven to 375*F. This may need adjustment, so watch the banitsa while it cooks. It could take between 35-50 minutes. It should turn medium brown on top.

Filling:

- 1 med-small pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and grated. You can probably use canned pumpkin instead. I don’t think it would change cooking time too much

- Oil, around 1 cup. You’ll use it to coat the pan and a bit on top also. Only put around half a cup in the pumpkin mix. If it seems dry, add more; if using canned, add less.

- 1 cup sugar (to taste, I prefer much much less, you could substitute some sweet potato for healthier version...though with the oil and dough not sure it'd make much difference)

- 1 cup chopped walnuts (to taste)

- ½ teaspoon cinnamon (to taste)

After you’re done grating the pumpkin, cut the dough ball into 3 equal balls. Spread first ball flat with hands as thin as possible. It should be pretty big. Like super large pizza size. Don’t worry if there are a few holes, it's not a big deal. Trim off the edges of the dough with a knife. Spread a third of the pumpkin mixture evenly on dough then roll up like a burrito. In the center of large circular pan wind around in a circle starting from the middle. Repeat with other two balls. Pour a little oil on top and sprinkle with sugar. Serve with ice cream or plain yogurt.

If you’re using store bought phyllo dough, prep the pan with oil and lay first sheet on bottom. Spread a small amount of filling thinly and evenly on top of dough. Repeat until dough and filling are finished. The top layer should be dough. Pour a little oil on top and sprinkle with sugar. Serve with ice cream or plain yogurt. You can also try the circular way, but with tighter circles. If you’d prefer individual servings, use store bought dough and make miniature banitsas on a cookie pan. Decrease cooking time. Use 2-4 sheets of dough per banitsa.

Thursday

After my language lesson yesterday, I stopped by the carpet museum and tourist information center. I’ve been running into the lady who runs it around town and hadn’t visited since I arrived. I’d like to work with her in the future and wanted to spend some time chatting with her about her work….Well, my meeting turned out much differently than I expected. She dressed me up in the national costume and had me pose for pictures throughout the museum with different props. It was in the 90s yesterday, I was wearing rolled up jeans and a shirt underneath several layers of wool dresses and I didn’t have a clue how she wanted me to hold the different carpet production props. She seemed to have a blast instructing me and taking photos. It was sweaty and awkward, but also awesome, I mean, when else could this possible happen? When I returned to work, we exchanged pictures from our impromptu photo session and different ones she’s taken of the area over the years. I plan to return soon to talk about tourism and to learn how to weave carpets.

After horo dancing at the cultural center, I went na gosti at a colleagues last night. Na gosti literally translates as: ‘to go be a guest,’ but means so much more and is a huge part of Bulgarian life. Bulgarians do it everyday. You don’t call ahead, but you usually bring a small gift, like chocolate or flowers. The host will supply food and rakia and it’s expected that you arrive hungry, thirsty, and ready to talk for hours. My colleague brings me fruit and vegetables from her garden often and has offered to let me use her washer machine. I figured it was due time to go na gosti and I wanted to return some of the hospitality. I attempted to bake chocolate chip cookies using my electric hot plate, this plan failed miserably, but I headed to her house anyways.

When I arrived, banitsa was in the oven and a table in the garden was ready for guests. We sat under the grape vines drinking a beverage mixed from homemade elderberry syrup and soda water. Elderberries grow in the mountains here. Their flowers are used for teas and syrups, their berries make natural dyes for carpet weaving. My colleague has an amazing garden and a huge cellar full of compotes, canned vegetables, and wine barrels. Shortly after the banitsa was cooled and placed on the table, her husband, neighbors, and two grown sons appeared. Her sons had with him the orthodox priest who runs the Chiprovtsi Monastery. All of us sat in the garden, eating banitsa and salads and talking until late. It was fantastic.

We made plans to picnic at the monastery and go blackberry picking. I am also expected to make pies, demonstrated in her kitchen, for the monastery. This was decided during dinner. The priest is very well read and knows quite a few English words. He mentioned pie, which all of them had seen on television and knew to be a ubiquitous American dish. Of course, they agreed, I must be skilled at preparing pies and since I don’t have an oven, I should prepare it here and teach at the same time. This should be interesting. I rarely cook or bake. I’ve never made a pie before. The only things I make regularly are variations of egg scrambles and three ingredient peanut butter cookies. But, I’m excited to learn. If I’m learning how to prepare Bulgarian food, dance horo, and weave carpets, I ought to have something to teach in return…something besides English and more interesting than using advanced features on Microsoft Excel that is. I returned home with a bag full of cucumbers and apples from the garden and a cola liter bottle full of fresh sheep milk. Can’t wait to find out what comes next.

Integration Tipping Point

Something clicked this week with integrating in my community. So far, everyone has been very warm and welcoming, but I was still spending a lot of time alone in my apartment or simply exchanging pleasantries on the street. I hadn’t been able to make the jump from acquaintance to friend. However, this week, the process changed and it seemed everything began at once. Tuesday was the tipping point.

I didn’t realize it, but my counterpart’s brother installs internet service so it was super easy to get it in my apartment. While on a coffee break with my counterpart and a colleague, my colleague mentioned I must be bored-no TV, internet, etc. My counterpart called her brother, we met him at the apartment, and, after a few hours of him rigging a cord through my balcony window and directing expletives towards my Mac (they're uncommon in Bulgaria), I had internet in my apartment! Having internet alone is fantastic, even if I’ve hardly had a chance to use it, but what was also nice was that during the several hours it took him to figure out the installation, my counterpart and I chatted and shared photos-excellent bonding time in a more relaxed environment.

On our walk back to the Obshtina, we ran into Isabel, a Bulgarian teacher at the school in Chiprovtsi, who also speaks English. We went to the café and now I have an amazing language tutor. My first lesson was yesterday and was exactly what I wanted. It was held in her house and had the perfect balance of grammar, speaking, and reading comprehension. I’ll have lessons everyday until mid-September when school begins. Although we’ll scale down the frequency of my classes when she returns to work, I’ll start helping once a week or so with the English classes at the school. It will be a great way to stay in touch with the kids I met at the camp, maintain my relationship with her, and add an peer exchange component to between the school here and the 6^th grade class I correspond with in America.

After work I went to dinner at the house of a retired couple in town. The husband’s name is Stalin, like Josef. Their grown son’s name is Elvis and he sings opera in America. They are an amazing family. I will have dinner there weekly and help her with her pronunciation. She can read English, but wants to be able to sing psalms. No worries, I won't pretend to be able to assist with the singing component.

I had just returned to my apartment when there was knocking at my door. Outside was a group of 6^th and 7^th graders from town wanting to go to the café. I knew some of the girls from the camp and I’d chatted with them and their friends around town. We went to the café, drank Fanta, and exchanged Skype details. They are so funny and message me all the time. I’m really excited to help them with their English and work with them in the future. I feel a bit overwhelmed with na gosti and picnic invites, but couldn't be happier.

Hiking around Chiprovtsi

Chiprovtsi is literally nestled in a valley with steep inclines on all sides. The hills are crisscrossed with narrow trails used for livestock (mostly sheep and goats-sadly, there are no water buffalo here). When the sun is rising, the mountains to the west turn pink and mist forms above the river that winds through town. At this time of day, Chiprovtsi looks like a fairy tale village, or like it belongs in a snow globe.

I live in the center of town. Walking in any direction will take me on a paved road bordered by closely built houses, a few small storefronts, and some empty buildings. After a few blocks, gravel and dirt roads will split off leading to the gardens that surround the village. Unlike Kravoder, where most of the homes had large yards with gardens, the houses in Chiprovtsi are close together, with little room for gardens. Many of the families have plots in the surrounding hills or homes in nearby villages with larger gardens. Beyond the gardens are the dirt paths winding up the mountains, leading through forests or meadows that the shepherds use or at one time did.

Since I’m not supposed to run along the paved road that leads in and out of Chiprovtsi because of stray dogs, I’ve been hiking and running on the mountain paths. I carry a whistle and a big stick when I go on long hikes just in case. I rarely see anyone else on them. Occasionally, when I’m close to town and the road is still wide and flat-ish, I’ll pass by a horse cart carrying wood or manure, or a person walking to their garden, but usually I’m alone.

There are so many trails in the hills surrounding Chiprovtsi, each one splitting off to somewhere else. I’ll often come across small shepherd sheds along the way or find the trail twists back onto itself. I don’t see many shepherds when I go hiking, but I also don’t seek them out. The sound of sheep bells carries far over the mountains and valleys and is a good warning signal. There are usually several large dogs scouting around the flock to protect it from the wolves and other predators in the forest—not something I want to meet on a walk. Some of the paths also lead to old monastery ruins or natural springs.

Leten Lager

Our hike to the Gushovski Monastery

The camp was excellent! The first day was the most challenging, but even that wasn’t so hard. I led the introductions and used some easy ice breaker games we learned during training. Then, we divided the 37 kids into three groups, one of which I led, to plan performances for the evening bonfire. Motivating a wide range of kids that don’t really know each other to come up with an idea that they will have to perform in front of a large group is a challenge under any conditions, but when your language skills are still in the ‘developmental’ stage, it’s really hard. Luckily, I have the best colleagues and one of them helped me with that activity, the kids were also really patient. The rest of the camp flew by: we hiked to a 17^th century monastery, played a ton of Bulgarian dodgeball, swam in the river, painted rocks-it was perfect. Even when it rained, the kids were easy to be around; they were plenty entertained trying to ask me questions about life in America, testing out random English words, or just playing cards in the giant army tents.

Painting rocks and making art from found objects

I’m really proud of myself for how it all went-not for planning or anything, I mostly just observed that, but for my role in interacting with the kids. I was intimidated about working at the camp. I’ve never been a camp counselor, or anything similar, before and despite living with an 8 and 2 year old for the last few months, I’m still nervous about being around children. My fears were totally unfounded! I got along great with them and they respected me. I even led a hike with all 37 of them by myself to a natural spring a kilometer away, no one cried or died on my watch. I’m excited about next year and am really looking forward to planning activities with the school in town.

Tents and sleeping mats before we put them together

I was very impressed at how well everyone did with the rustic conditions. There was no running water or even outhouse style toilets. We brushed our teeth in the river and the bathroom was the forest behind the last tent; yet no one complained and the food was incredible. Without a kitchen, vehicle, or fancy camping cooking gear, I was expecting a Bulgarian equivalent to mass produced spaghetti, powdered mashed potatoes, and peanut butter sandwiches; instead, we had fresh salads, grilled chicken breasts, roasted potatoes, kufteta, karnachi, banitsa, and fresh honeydew or watermelon for desert. One woman made all the food for three large hot meals and two snack breaks for 43 people each day over a fire with a makeshift grate and she didn’t seem to break a sweat about it. I helped was the dishes in the river and marveled at her culinary skills.